window and door mechanism lube

[71Satellite98661]

All inner door parts are new cleaned and ready for reassembly. I read the FSM tonight which recommends Lubriplate for equivalent. What have you fine fellows used and what can you recommend or not recommend? I do have some Mopar Multi-Milage Lube on the shelf but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask around first.

[71bird]

I need to do mine to, and I was going to use the Mopar multi mile lube. It's really hard to beat that stuff.

[dangina]

white lithium grease is what they use now on cars so that's what I bought, lubriplate is high end

[rr6pak]

white lithium grease is what they use now on cars so that's what I bought, lubriplate is high end

Its widely used in aircraft, manufacturing, military uses it to lube the M1 etc.
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-c ... d6525.aspx

There ya go. I've used it for years and still do. Another kind is named Molykote

[71Satellite98661]

Thanks rr6pak. I just placed my order. Anything good enough for the U.S. military is good enough for me!

[rr6pak]

No problem. Did you get a kit? I haven't resourced that stuff yet but will need it soon though.

[71Satellite98661]

I didn't find much for aftermarket parts but I was lucky to be able to clean everything and salvage most of the components. I was surprised at how much my local Filbin's Ace Hardware has been able to help with miscellaneous small parts. The factory grease was so tenacious that there was next to no rust or wear anyways. I used VHT SP117 flat aluminum and Rust-Oleum professional 7519 stainless steel on many of the parts that needed touching up.

[71Satellite98661]

I went ahead and used the white lithium on the door latch/lock and rods. Once the heavy rifle grease shows up this week, I'll use that for the window mechanisms. I ended up "fine tuning" the fittment of both doors. In hind sight, they never really shut that tight before the paint/body work. I bent the sheet metal retaining plate behind the jamb enough to remove the heavy striker plate anchor. This allowed me to elongate the striker bolt hole from the door side of the jamb no more than 1/4". Once reassembled, the striker bolt washer still covers the hole and allows the door to actually close flush with the quarter panels and compress the door weatherstrip. What a difference! With rebuilt door hinges and Dynamat-lined doors, they now close effortlessly and sound SOLID! Here are photos of before/after the grease bath. I slathered it on and "packed" it as if they were wheel bearings. Here's to another 40+ years!

[71Satellite98661]

Check out this heavy factory grease. Man, this stuff is the bomb! It seems to fit the description of Cosmoline...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

I kind of felt guilty removing it to make way for the Lubriplate that just arrived.

[71Satellite98661]

Looking online to see if Cosmoline can still be purchased. I found it! Also listed are some alternative products that seemed to match the characteristics. Has anyone had any experience with any of these?

http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/?gclid=C ... MgodtAkAbw

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-06026-Heavy-C ... uctDetails

http://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust- ... ECDGYFBG61

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Small-T ... shield+T-9

[71Satellite98661]

I just spoke with a Mark at http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/ and based on my description to him of the original window mechanism lube he suggested this to be the closest match, possibly the same stuff as the factory used. U.S. Military Spec and used since WWII...

http://www.flywheeldistribution.com/mil ... c-class-3/