Road Runner Nest

Who are you guys buying aluminum radiators from?

Who should I avoid?

Car is a 318/auto with A/C. 2 core? 3 core?

Thanks,

Patrick

I got mine from these guys.

http://www.speedcooling.com/

it took a little grinding on a couple of the holes to get it to fit exactly right, and a bit of clearance on the front frame rail. but it's well made, and seems to do the job.

sjd

You can get just as good of a radiator that will cool just as good, from Glen Rey radiators, and it will look stock, and be made here in the US

26" New Chrysler Licensed Reproduction Small Block Radiator $895.00.


Sorry. That's waaaaaaaaaaay too pricey for my base model, non-numbers matching, no fender tag 71 SSP.

http://www.restorationradiators.com/pro ... od=26RADSB

Bought a 4 core from champion rads, first one was warped so bad the two opposite corners wouldn't touch. The second one only has one corner that wouldnt sit properly which is liveable. But thats what you have to live with when the rad was only $200.

You dont have the factory one to get it recored?

No. Car was a basket case. Driveline and radiator missing.

Are you planing to keep it a 318 car(any mods)? Big blocks need more cooling(bigger radiator). You can get an oem replacement for it but if you plan any mods you will need a larger radiator or get one with more rows for a small block car. Would be nice to add what your plans are for it.

Already sourced and rebuilt a 318. Will be an A/C car. Mild cam upgrade and 4bbl conversion.

I have an original rad from a ’72 b-body 318 with air. In very good shape when removed, 26” two row I believe. Would be willing to part with it, unfortunately shipping may kill you, looks like you are on the opposite coast.

I pulled the trigger on a Champion EC374, 2 row, 26" aluminum radiator.

The bottom mounting tabs should be 28" on center, but it's 27.5". Guess I'll have to break out the jigsaw and widen the openings.

Patrick

Now that I have widened the lower mounting tabs, the radiator is bottoming out on the lower radiator support before the top slots line up with the upper mounting holes.

Anyone else had this many problems with a Champion EC 374?

The mounting holes in the champion radiator flanges are generic, they're not intended to line up with a specific application. To mount the one I have in my Duster I just set a paint stick on the radiator lower support, set the radiator on it, and then marked where the mounting holes needed to be on the radiator flanges and drilled new holes. As long as it doesn't touch the radiator support or interfere with the hood closing you'll be fine. If it does either (or both) of those you might need a different height radiator.

If you had gotten a radiator from Glen Rey like advised there wouldn't be any mounting problems.

71bird wrote:If you had gotten a radiator from Glen Rey like advised there wouldn't be any mounting problems.

Yeah, right. Except that you'd be more than $700 poorer compared to buying a Champion radiator and drilling a couple of holes. I mean, $895 for a radiator? Plus shipping no doubt. Thats half my mortgage for the month.

For $700 I can drill a couple of holes. Heck, I can even pretend I'm making fourteen hundred bucks an hour to drill a couple of holes, since it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

I've had absolutely zero issues with my Champion radiator, and I've put over 10k miles on the car since I installed it. As long as it keeps my 400+ hp 340 cool when it's 110* F out, I couldn't possibly care less about it looking stock or not. And yes, I drive my car when it's 110* F out. Sometimes I even get stuck in traffic. The Barrett Jackson types are ruining this hobby. Buy a nice muscle car and drive the crap out of it. When it breaks, fix it, and drive it some more. Can't see the part number on the radiator when it's driving down the road.