ignition woes...

landon1 · Post by **landon1** » Wed May 23, 2007 7:17 pm

well, i've replaced everything...points, condensor, coil, ballast resistor, cap, and rotor...well except for wires (which i got probably 2 years ago) and plugs (which probably do need changed)...

and it still won't start...would bad plugs make it so that it would just stop starting...it ran fine on a thursday, and then magically on saturday, it was a no go...i've done about all i can think of other than plugs and going to electronic ignition(and i don't know if either would do it), so i thought i'd see what you guys thought

aerodynamic · Post by **aerodynamic** » Wed May 23, 2007 11:27 pm

I always say you gotta have spark, fuel, and air, and compression, then you gotta have them in the right order.

You are missing one or more of the above.

What is your compression? Do you have spark after the coil wire? Before it? Is the rotor turning at all? When you spray fuel in the carb does it try to fire? With #1 on TDC compression stroke, is the rotor pointed at #1 spark plug terminal? If you don't have spark, disconnect both coil terminals and hook a test light between them, then crank...if the test light pulses, the coil should fire. If there's no pulse, make sure you got power with the key on to the positive coil wire. Check and DOUBLE check your firing order. Everybody has screwed that up at one time or another....I've done it and seen factory trained techs do it. Do you smell gas when you crank it? It could be flooded...pull the plugs, disconnect the coil negative wire and crank for a few seconds. Throw some new plugs in and hook everything back up.

Let me know if any of this helps.

72GY9Runner · Post by **72GY9Runner** » Fri May 25, 2007 4:55 pm

First things first, determine if it is a spark or fuel problem.

Hold the choke flaps open on the carb and pump the throttle. You should be able to see and sometimes hear the gas squirting into the primaries.

If you have fuel, check for spark by placing an insulated handled screw driver into a plug wire and holding the metal close to ground. Then have someone wind over the car. You should have a good strong spark.

Since A. the car was running and just quit, and B. you have already replaced pretty much the entire ignition system. I suspect most of the checks previously mentioned above are ok.
If you don't have spark, make sure the rotor is turning. After that, the only thing left that I can think of would be the electronic ignition module, or the pickup coil (But... you said you replaced points and condensor? ) if you have an electronic ignition. If not, then maybe points not properly adjusted?

If you don't have fuel....

A fuel pump pressure check would be a good option. Pressure guage is available at most auto part stores.
I've seen old mopars that plugged up the filter screen in the fuel tank, or inline fuel filter and would just stop delivering fuel, even after a new pump was installed.
So no fuel may not just be the pump. If you pressure check the pump and it has pressure but still no fuel..... look for blockages, or possible pump drive problems.
If it turns out to be a plugged screen, you can quick fix the problem by blasting a quick shot of air down the fuel line (this will either clear the gunk, or blow the screen off the line. Just be sure to crack the gas cap first so you don't swell the tank.

Hope some of these help you out.

road chicken · Post by **road chicken** » Fri May 25, 2007 5:20 pm

One other possibility is the timing chain jumped. Bring #1 to TDC on the compression stroke and see if your distibutor rotor is where it should be.