Rear quarters

rthrbfishn · Post by **rthrbfishn** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 7:03 pm

I've pretty much given up on goodmark. I've found a donor for my GTX's rusty quarters. anyone have any experience chopping quarters off a donor? I doubt I'm going to install them myself, I'm just curious where to make the cuts when removing the replacements from the donor car. I hate to do a "full" quarter replacement because the body lines are quite nice now. I was thinking of splitting the inner\outer well, and cutting out just what I need.
Thanks
Todd

Another question: what openings besides a 71 sat/x/runner would work? 2 door/4 door the same?
Thanks again!

rthrbfishn · Post by **rthrbfishn** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:26 am

OK. Any opinions??

72GY9Runner · Post by **72GY9Runner** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 10:59 am

From what I have been able to find, it appears that 71-72 2dr Plymouth B-Bodies are the only donors that will work. The 4 door cars, and the Dodge lines had a different body line.

Is the donor car in a wrecking yard, or do you have it in a shop where you can disassemble? If it's in a wrecking yard, I like to torch or plasma cut as far away from the usable metal as possible to avoid warping from heat. If it is in a shop, I usually will use a good spot weld cutter and drill out as many of the factory welds as possible (wheel lips, door openings etc.), and then cut unreachable areas somewhere in the adjoining panel.
An air die grinder with a cut-off disk can work well for this part.

Hope that helps ya.

Dave

rthrbfishn · Post by **rthrbfishn** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 10:28 pm

Thanks for the reply. I plan on disassembly in the shop, I should be able to take my time on the teardown. I'm trying to muster the courage, ( and the knowledge) to tackle the job myself. I enjoy the "I did it all myself" level of a project, and I've been burned on quality of workmanship too many times.
My shop is about 40 mi south of Alberta, on highway 2. where are you at in Alta?
T

72GY9Runner · Post by **72GY9Runner** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:36 am

Hey.. small world.

I'm located in a city called Red Deer, it's pretty much right in the middle of Edmonton and Calgary.
If you're in a shop, and have a donor car with really good quarters, you may want to consider a full quarter removal and replacement. It really cut's down on the final prep and finishing because you don't have any welds in the middle of the panel.

That said.... it's not often you find a completely rust free quarter for cars this age. How bad are the quarters on your car?

Dave

rthrbfishn · Post by **rthrbfishn** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 11:14 am

infront and behind the openings, the entire lip and outer wells are beyond repair. I think the cars early years were spent in Ohio, where most of the damage was done. someone buttered them up and painted them sometime later.
The damage seems to be localized, but you can never really be sure until you strip it. The same can be said for my donor!
There is a new thread (again) about new quarters "in a couple months" from ABS. I'm just not sure what to do about the outer well/lip fabrication. I haven't seen any mention of reproduction wells.

72GY9Runner · Post by **72GY9Runner** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 1:43 pm

If the rust is all below the body lines, it shouldn't be too hard to make new pieces from flat metal. I'm actually in the process of making up driver side patches now. You can make them in sections to make it easier.

For example, you can make the piece that goes above the wheel, and then a piece for each side where it curves around the wheel, and then the a patch panel for each lower quarter piece in front and behind the wheel.

I always try to cut the rust and immediately make the new patch before cutting out the next piece. That way you have some of the original panel left to match your patch up to. Once you have all your patches made (and the rusted outer pieces removed) you can cut out any of the rusted inners and make patches for those as well. The inners are quite easy to patch, as the exact curve and shape isn't as crucial being that it is not easily seen, and covered with undercoat. The important part is to get the shape of the wheel lip right so that the new outer patches fit well. If your outer patches are made good enough, you should be able to hammer/dolly the inner lip into shape against the new outers when you're done welding them in place, and it will all fit nicely.
(Of course you don't need to worry about makin all of these outer patches if you find a good donor car, and maybe you'll even find good wheel tubs)

BTW... I know they make replacement wheel tub outers for E-Body cars, but I haven't checked to see if there are any available for B cars. Anybody know?

I'm heading out of town for a car show tonite, but when I get back next week, I'll try and send you a few pics of my progress so far, if you like.
If you want, email me some pics of your car. Maybe I can make some reccomendations on where to start.

Dave

rthrbfishn · Post by **rthrbfishn** » Thu Jun 30, 2005 11:51 am

Thanks, I'd like to see your photos. I'll get some pics to you over the 4th.
Todd

72GY9Runner · Post by **72GY9Runner** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 10:48 am

I'll try and get the pics downloaded from my camera and email you this week.

Dave

rthrbfishn · Post by **rthrbfishn** » Sun Aug 07, 2005 1:04 pm

I haven't forgot about you! Unfortunately the car falls pretty low on the list of priorities. I'll try to get you some pis next week.
T

Road Runner Nest

Rear quarters

Rear quarters

Rear Quarters

rear quarters

rear quarters

Rear Quarters