Road Runner Nest

Hello, I just got finished doing another upgrade to my project. I wanted to remove the factory AMP gauge and replace it with a VOLT gauge. I did some reasearch and found that a CP7985 Sunpro Volt gauge would work for a start, so dissassembly of my gauge cluster and a lot of thought and modifacations had to be done to the gauge base and also to the new Volt gauge and I used the original /factory AMP gauge face-(modified) and installed it back onto the Volt gauge. So it can be done with a lot of time . I am going to post a few pictures...
Gary

2nd picture with lens cover installed

3rd picture of the back side of the gauge cluster

Picture of the gauge cluster with bezel on

another great Idea I may have to steal from you! looks factory!

Thank you!... The volt gauge you can get at an Autozone...for less than $15.00.... from there it's just a lot of time and having the proper tools to do the job. It was a saftey issue for me to change from the original AMP gauge to a volt gauge. Especially since I am going to intall a New Flaming River High output Alternator.

Looks excellent! I read about this in a Mopar magazine awhile ago, but I wasn't totally sure how my gauge cluster came apart and I didn't want to break it in the process. I ended up painting my speedo needle with some nail polish so it was orange again and put an in-dash tachometer in.

Well,the gauge clusters are not too bad to disassemble, but it does take time to cut and modify the gauge and your housing to fit. It is a safty issue to me so that is why I took the time do do this.

Yeah, I bypassed my amp gauge a long time ago for safety reasons too. I upgraded to a 100 amp alternator (factory style) hoping to increase idle output to no avail. Since then these new billet units came out. They sound good on paper, though I've read they have some alignment problems with those running a serpentine setup.

Are you taking about the Flaming River Billet alternators? My buddy bought one, but hasn't installed it yet. They make a 150 amp alternator and a 240 amp alternator. I am not sure if I need the 150 AMP or the 240 AMP one.
When I get my one car done (the 71 Charger) it will have power seats, power windows, maybe power locks, Power moon roof,Cruise control, A/C, PDB, P.S, and upgraded headlight system. and I think a towing pacckage

I apologize, I had my stuff mixed up. I'd have to learn more about the Flaming River ones. The one I read with fitment problems with the serpentine setup was the Quality Power Auto alternator: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_55 ... rnator.htm

Having a background in auto electrical, I'd have to see a charging curve graph to see the speed vs. output. But truth be told, I think the 150 amp model will be more than enough. As an example...GM's AD244 model alternator comes in a 140 amp flavor (with superb idle output) and is enough to power a fully electronic EFI system, moonroof, heated seats, temperature automatic climate control, ABS, auxiliary lighting, in dash navigation, electric fans, and all the other goodies modern vehicles come with without even dimming the lights. All the power accessories you'll have like windows and seats won't be a constant draw, and I'd be cautious of very high rated alternators. Alternators are very dependent on design, and highly rated ones often used in car audio world have poor idle output.

That's just my recommendation though. I have no charging graph to compare to and no first hand experience with Flaming River's new alternators. If I had a graph, I could probably give you a for-sure answer!

Yea, I was thinking that the 150 AMP alternator would work just fine.

Just a little non-technical tip... Might want to use a fluorescent paint (I believe they sell needle-specific paint) instead of the nail polish since the gauges are flood lit and will glow better at nighttime. Maybe do them all to "refresh" them so they will look consistent.

I use florescent line paint, and seams to work great!

Yeah, I made a mistake with mine. I was actually just gonna leave it alone, but my father recommended "hey, just use this!" Color wise it was an extremely close match to the factory colors, but if you look really close, there was actually really fine light blue metal flake in the paint. D'oh! Thankfully I'm not looking to win any car shows.