1972 Road Runner/GTX restoration

[72Rdrnner]

72RoadRunnerGTX,

What are you going to do for hoses/fittings for the a/c system? Looks like a pretty tight fit under the air cleaner.

I got mine made from Classic Auto Air. Took a couple of tries to get the right bend to fit nicely but the folks down there were really good about working with me.

Here's a couple of pix of the compressor and evaporator fittings. I had the service ports put right on the compressor fittings, although you can actually put them other places. I can hook up my service manifold without even taking off the air cleaner. In your case you'll probably have to.



Classic Auto Air sent me fittings for the evaporator but due to the Mopar Performance (MSD) ignition module they wouldn't fit. But the stock ones fit like they were made for that unit! I sent them to Classic Auto Air and they cleaned them up and put the appropriate hoses on them. They leave the other end of the hose (where it attaches to the compressor) off. All you have to do is measure, fit, and cut the hose to the right length, then take it to any a/c shop to have the fitting swaged onto the hose. Here's a pix of the evaporator fittings. Also shows the stock expansion valve with the capillary tube that slips into the small tube on top of the evaporator suction fitting.



I might add, I took the foam insulation off the large fitting where the capillary tube attaches to take the picture.

I was really surprised how easily it all went together and it works great!

In the FWIW department i left the little valve that depending on engine temp will advance the spark to add 50 rpm to the idle speed. (can't see it in the picture as it's underneath the heater hoses) This was a Mopar feature on the 440 engines with a/c to help cool the engine when at idle with the a/c on. I don't think it's really needed due to the more efficient system I have on now, but in the interest of nostalgia I left it in place. So far, even on a hot summer Louisiana day, sitting at a stop light with the a/c going full blast, I haven't even come close to overheating the motor.

[rav440]

A little more progress, shot of floor/firewall after being Lizard Skinned
The motor mostly complete and in place (Updated 1/18/2008)

what paint did you use on the master cylinder , wiper motor , and heater blower thing ?

the rr looks way beyond fantastic . one hell of a nice job

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

The master cylinder is a new Bendix replacement; I did spray Eastwood's Diamond Clear on the cast iron. The booster was recently rebuilt and re-plated. Wiper motor is an NOS piece I picked up on E-bay a while back. The blower motor housing is painted with Rust-Oleum Stainless Steel #7519 (Home Depot).
Thanks.

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Well I was planning on cranking this thing up this weekend, ran into a couple of snags. The TTI headers and exhaust system arrived Friday, only problem was that the wrong exhaust system was sent. A couple phone calls later, I was told my correct exhaust system was on its way (Thanks for your help on that Nick). Went ahead and installed the headers. So far pretty pleased with the fit, only one place near the power steering gear box where clearance may be a problem. It's been a few years now but back in the day, I can't remember installing any headers that didn't require clearance adjustments with a ball-peen hammer. I haven't touched my ball-peen yet so far. The ceramic coating looks very nice; just wish it would have been protected better for shipping. There are several locations were the coating has rubbed off in the plastic bag, against the inside of the box they were shipped in. When I inquired about that at TTI, I was told I could use any high temp paint to touch up. Since finding a color match for the coating may be difficult I guess that means I'll have to pull them off and paint the headers at some point.

The other problem was with the MP water pump, went to fill the cooling system only to have a serious leak. Appears to be a defect with the shaft seal, I'll have to get it replaced. Also had a problem with the MP water pump housing (misaligned machine work, casting too close to vibration damper). The machine work on its replacement looked poor as well but it fit better. Anyone else here have any abnormal quality issues with Mopar Performance parts?



Update-later today
After putting some fuel in the tank I decided to pressurize the fuel system by running the electric fuel pump to look for leaks at all the fittings. I tightened up the fittings at carbs that needed it, all the other fittings back to the fuel pump and tank dry as a bone. Oiling system primed, fuel system primed, timing set, OK, no functional cooling system and open headers, what the hell, why not, a few seconds wouldn't hurt anything. It's alive again! Fired right up on may one of two revs of the starter.

[AZ-Nick]

Looks nice and tight in there, glad I was able to help you......
I think you have one beautiful X there.......
Did you get my recorded message I left you about them wanting to call you to apologise?

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

The correct exhaust system arrived and has been in installed. Water pump replaced, no leaks. Fired it up again to run in the cam, went well. Shortly after shutting it down I noticed a couple of drops of oil on the floor. At first it looked like a pan gasket issue or rear main seal. Looking closer, turns out it's a porosity flaw in the block. I acquired this block when I picked up a complete used motor awhile back. I believe it to be originally from a 74' c-body from some markings on the motor and the c-body oil pan with a 1 inch hole punched through it. The hole makes it is likely this motor had been processed through a wrecking yard at some time (wrecking yards tend not to bother with drain plugs). Other than the expected ½'" thick dirt and grime on it, there where no indications of a serious oil leak. The block was tanked and magna fluxed at the machine shop and they didn't pick up on it. I noticed some casting pits in this area when the motor was being assembled but never dreamed one could extend through the block wall. I'm thinking now the factory may have sealed it up originally with some compound that the hot tank removed. I can't imagine this block leaking like this from day one.

Anyhow, after consulting with my machinist and others, the consensus was this should not affect the structural integrity of the block and the leak could be patched externally with a JB weld type epoxy. The location is directly behind the pass side motor mount and did require removing the mount to get at it. This also helps to conceal the repair.

I have also determined that my plan to run one belt for the power steering pump and the water pump/fan isn’t going to work. The pulley slips at high rpm, just not enough contact area for the belt. Will have to go with the fourth belt and idler pulley.



Loaction


After a little grinding/prep, appears to open up to a small void in the cast iorn


A little JB weld and a shot of Chrysler blue. Holding up so far.


Now, its time to move on to the front suspension and brakes.

[AZ-Nick]

Now, its time to move on to the front suspension and brakes.

And when that is completed, please let me know and I will send you the address where the car can be sent for futher testing and hamering before you can safely drive it to a show.....

[1972 Road Runner GTX]

What's the scoop on your car? Is it an original 4bbl/automatic car?

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Yes, it is a "U" code (440 4bbl) RM, and did have an automatic transmission.
This is what I started with;

[AZ-Nick]

Your work amazes me......

[mopar71]

Beautiful Work!!

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

It's alive again, it has been quite few years now since I had a car that sounded like this. After almost 30years of driving V6s and turbo charged 4-bangers, I can't wait to get this V8 back on the road.

[71440 gtx]

I watched it ten times in a row and still didn't get enough of it.

[Smellslike1974]

Damn dude.
nice camera you got there!

and a beautiful car too,

[rr6pak]

What a work of art! Makes me because mine isnt near done but someday

Two thumbs up for ya